About the Different Types of Moisturizers And Which One is Best for Your Skin

Everyone strives for a hydrated, plump and soft complexion, and while moisturizing may seem like enough to get us there, the reality is a little different. Like it or not, getting a radiant, glowing complexion is more complicated than just picking a moisturizer off the skincare shelf. It’s about understanding the different types of moisturizers, which one your skin needs most, when and how to use them, and how often to use them. Do you need an oil-based formula or a water-based formula? Are thicker creams or lighter gels more effective for your skin? What about sealers, moisturizers and emollients? To accomplish the task of finding the perfect moisturizer, you need to answer these questions.

I know it sounds tricky, but I promise that by the end of this article, you will have a clear picture of which type of moisturizer is best for you.

How Moisturizers Work
A moisturizer is basically any product that moisturizes your skin. It can be a cream, lotion, gel or ointment, and can provide hydration in a variety of ways depending on the type of moisturizer it contains. For example, a humectant can sit on the surface of the skin and form a protective film to lock in moisture and soften (emollient), it can reduce water loss (sealant) or absorb water from the environment and seal it into the epidermis (humectant). [1]

Ideally, moisturizers should use a combination of emollients, sealers and humectants to provide immediate and long-lasting hydration and to soothe and relieve skin discomfort. However, this does not mean that a product containing all of the above is always the best. This is because emollients, sealants and moisturizers are not equally effective for all skin types and all conditions. In addition, the effectiveness of a moisturizer depends on the type of formulation (cream, gel or lotion) and whether it is suitable for your skin. Factors like acne, broken barriers, dryness, redness, sensitivity and climate change are also important when choosing a moisturizer.

Therefore, evaluating which type of moisturizer is best for your skin is crucial to reap all the benefits and get the desired results.

Types of Moisturizers
There are three main types of moisturizers, namely humectants, sealants and emollients, which, when used properly, can improve skin hydration and prevent dryness. [1] While they all have the same goal, each type of moisturizer has a different role to play and which one is best for you depends on your skin’s needs and environmental factors.

Moisturizers absorb moisture from the environment into the skin and are best suited for all skin types, especially oily, acne-prone and mature skin.
Sealants form a protective layer on the skin’s surface and reduce moisture loss, ideal for dry, dehydrated skin.
Emollients soften and strengthen the skin barrier and stop moisture loss by covering the skin with a protective film. They are best suited for conditions such as itching, eczema and redness.

Occlusions
Occlusives are mainly oils and waxes that cover the surface of the skin to lock in moisture and physically stop transepidermal water loss. [2][3] Because they must be located on the skin’s surface to work effectively, occlusives usually contain large molecules that are unable to penetrate deeper layers.

Common sealants in skin care products include mineral oil, petrolatum, beeswax, shea butter, squalane, silicone, and zinc oxide. [1] Of these, petrolatum is the most effective sealant moisturizer. According to studies, at a concentration of 5%, petroleum jelly can reduce water loss by more than 98%. [4] Lanolin, mineral oil, and silicone are also good sealers, reducing transepidermal water loss by 20% to 30%. [1]

Because of their water-locking ability, occlusives are best suited for dehydrated, cracked skin and are preferred during cold winters when humidity is low. On the other hand, some occlusives are not suitable for oily and acne-prone skin because they are sticky, have an oily feel, and can clog pores.

Moisturizers
Moisturizers are low-molecular compounds that absorb water from the environment and draw it into the skin, thereby increasing the moisture content of the cells. [2] Their lightweight, non-greasy texture and rapid absorption make them ideal for all skin types, especially oily, combination and acne-prone skin. Although they exist in various forms, moisturizers are most commonly used in lotions and gels.

Humectants commonly used in skin care products include hyaluronic acid, urea, panthenol, glycerin, alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid), betaine, polyglutamic acid, aloe vera, and honey. [1] Some humectants, such as hyaluronic acid, are also part of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which is responsible for the skin’s natural ability to retain moisture.

Interestingly, humectants only work properly and hydrate the skin when air humidity is above 70%. When humidity levels are low, humectants do not absorb water from the environment, but from the deeper layers of the skin, leading to evaporation and excessive dryness. [2] One way to increase the effectiveness of moisturizers in low humidity areas is to use them in conjunction with an occlusive agent. Occlusive agents help lock in moisture in the epidermis and prevent the skin from losing too much water. [2] Another solution is to use an air humidifier to increase humidity and keep it above 70%.

Emollients
Emollients are mainly fatty acids and lipids with softening properties that work by filling all the cracks and spaces between cells. [1] They are available for all skin types and are the most effective products for repairing the barrier, relieving redness and itching, and soothing the skin. Most importantly, emollients are ideal for use after cosmetic procedures, such as chemical peels or microneedling, to soften and accelerate the recovery process.

Emollients commonly used in skin care products include vitamin E, ceramides, shea butter, cholesterol, squalane and fatty acid-rich oils such as jojoba, castor, olive and coconut oils.

Types of moisturizer formulations
Lotions: are water-based, lightweight, non-greasy, easy to apply, and mostly contain moisturizers.
Creams: are made with heavier sealers and emollients and are thicker than other formulas, but not as thick as ointments.
Ointments: are oily, greasy and shiny looking; they work well in areas of low humidity (below 60%).
Gels: are water-based formulas that have a smooth surface, absorb quickly, and usually contain no oil.
Water-based vs. oil-based moisturizers
Water-based moisturizers mean that the base of the product (the first ingredient in the highest concentration) is water. They can be creams, gels or lotions and usually have a light, non-greasy texture that is light and absorbs quickly. For this reason, people with oily, combination and acne-prone skin prefer water-based moisturizers, but they work well for any other skin type.

For the same reason, oil-based moisturizers are oil-based. Compared to water-based formulas, oil-based formulas are thicker, heavier, and mostly contain closed emollients. They lock in moisture, soften and relieve dryness better than water-based products, making them ideal for use when dry, dehydrated or with a compromised barrier. Oil-based moisturizers are also perfect in colder seasons or where humidity is low, as their thick texture better protects against moisture loss in adverse conditions.

How to choose the right moisturizer for your skin
Normal skin: You can use any type of moisturizer, but usually, a light gel or lotion is enough to keep your skin hydrated. However, if you feel overly dry, you should use a cream formula with emollients to soften and calm your skin.
Dry skin: Creams and ointments are the best choice for dry skin because they are thicker and retain more moisture than gel formulas. In addition, people with dry skin should use a combination of sealers, moisturizers and emollients to add deep moisture and reduce water evaporation.
Oily skin: Moisturizers are best suited for oily skin. On the other hand, heavy emollients should be avoided for oily skin because they can clog pores. Instead, it should target gel moisturizers that do not cause acne because they are lightweight and do not feel greasy.
Combination skin: It can use any type of moisturizer, but should avoid heavy formulas on the T-zone.
Sensitive skin: It is not limited to any type of moisturizer, but formulas containing alcohol and fragrances should be avoided.
Broken Barrier, aka Redness, Irritation, Dryness: Regardless of your skin type, when you experience a broken barrier, you may need to change the type of moisturizer to meet your current skin needs. A broken barrier is considered irritated, excessively dry and red, and when this happens, it is best to use supplemental emollients such as fatty acids, cholesterol, squalene and ceramides. They work to relieve sensitivity and strengthen the protective barrier. SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, for example, contains all of these supplements and is a great product to have on hand when your skin is experiencing problems.

How and when to use moisturizer
After cleanser, toner and serum, moisturizer should be used twice daily in your morning and afternoon routines. Prioritize the use of moisturizer before the skin is completely dry, as it will make the product easier to apply and more effective since it already has water sealed into the epidermis. Also, make sure the moisturizer is applied evenly to the face and then use sunscreen in the morning.

Most experts recommend using two different moisturizers during the day and at night. This is because the skin needs a light protective formula that provides long-lasting hydration during the day, while at night, it needs repair and replenishing ingredients.

How often to hydrate
Depending on your skin type and environmental conditions, you may need to apply moisturizer one to three times a day.8 Only 50% of your moisturizer remains on the surface of your skin after an hour, so if you are dealing with excessive dryness, it is best to use it three times a day. [1]

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