Phytosphingosine is a Super Ingredient that can Enhance your Skincare Routine
We’re here to answer all your questions about Phytosphingosine and help you find the best skin care products that contain it.
You don’t have to be a skincare guru to know that the top layer of skin (epidermis) acts as a protective barrier and plays a vital role in retaining proper moisture and warding off external threats. While most of us are familiar with the major lipids that form this barrier – ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol – only a few of us have encountered phytosphingosine in our skin care products.
Like its lipid counterpart, phytosphingosine is an essential component of the skin found in the epidermis, providing protection and water retention. You can think of it as the backbone of the skin’s epidermal barrier. What’s more, this heavyweight hitter has proven to be a promising anti-aging agent and also has some acne-clearing abilities. It’s found in a plethora of beauty products that anyone can use to boost skin protection and moisturize – and it sounds good. Read on to learn about phytosphingosine and how to use it in your skincare routine.
What is phytosphingosine?
Phytosphingosine is a lipid, specifically a sphingolipid, naturally found in the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin). Together with other lipids (including ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids), phytosphingosine forms what is known as the epidermal barrier. This protective barrier is located at the very top of the epidermis and is your body’s first line of defense against environmental aggressions. Not only does it prevent bacteria, pollutants, allergens and irritants from entering your system, it also controls the amount of water that escapes through your skin. In other words, a healthy epidermal barrier is essential for healthy, moist skin.
But what happens when the barrier is weakened, for example, due to factors such as chemicals or sun damage? Your skin loses moisture, becomes sensitive, and is prone to redness and inflammation. This is where skin care products containing phytosphingosine come in handy. They help replenish the lipid barrier, keeping your complexion hydrated and better able to withstand environmental damage. So if your skin is damaged by sunburn, over-exfoliation, too much retinol, pollution or anything in between, use a cream with phytosphingosine – it will provide immediate relief from pain and plenty of nutrients.
Phytosphingosine and Ceramides
Simply put, phytosphingosine is a precursor to ceramide, which is also a lipid and one of the main components of the skin barrier. More specifically, ceramides are formed when phytosphingosine is combined with fatty acids and other lipids. [1] While ceramides are essential for the overall structure and function of the barrier, phytosphingosine plays a supporting role by maintaining its production.
The role of phytosphingosine in skin care
Restoring the epidermal barrier: If you are dealing with dry or sensitive skin, you know how important it is to keep the epidermal barrier in optimal condition. As a component of ceramides, phytosphingosine is a key player in the skin’s natural defense system, which means it helps retain moisture and irritants. That’s why adding phytosphingosine-rich products to your daily routine is a quick way to restore and strengthen the skin barrier.
Improves the skin’s natural moisturizing factor: NMF is a molecular complex that the skin naturally uses to retain moisture by attracting and retaining moisture from the air. Phytosphingosine has been shown to be involved in the regulation of polyserin – a protein involved in NMF production. [2]
Acne reduction: Phytosphingosine is a godsend for acne-prone skin because of its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. This allows it to address all the major causes of acne. In fact, a 2007 study found that the use of phytosphingosine alone reduced the number of pimples by 89%. The results were even better when phytosphingosine was used in combination with benzoyl peroxide. The only gain? Because of the chemical reaction, these two ingredients cannot be mixed together, so they must be used in separate products. [3]
Soothing: Phytosphingosine reduces swelling and swelling, decreases inflammation and redness, reduces sensitivity, and basically calms the skin.
Is it safe?
Given that phytosphingosine is naturally present in the skin, topical application is not harmful. While there is limited data on its side effects, the data we currently have does not raise any red flags regarding its safety. However, when adding a new product to your skin care routine, it is best to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face.
What about salicylic phytosphingosine?
You will often find products that contain phytosphingosine salicylic acid. This ingredient is the best of both worlds, as it combines the hydrating and replenishing effects of phytosphingosine with the exfoliating and renewing properties of salicylic acid. Not to mention, both of these ingredients are the bees knees when it comes to fighting acne.
In fact, one study hit the nail on the head, showing that phytosphingosine salicylic acid is particularly effective at repairing photo-aged skin. It was found to stimulate the production of collagen, which significantly reduces wrinkles and skin roughness. [4]
Phytosphingosine and Retinol Combine for Better Results
Both retinol and phytosphingosine can activate specific hormone receptors that regulate processes such as reducing inflammation and supporting skin regeneration. When retinol binds to its receptor (RXR) and phytosphingosine binds to its (PPAR), these two receptors form an active complex that can trigger specific molecular processes. [5] For example, the combination of these two components may help balance sebum production, which is beneficial for people with acne-prone skin. It may also improve skin hydration, smoothness and texture, and help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Try Phytosphingosine products
Inkey List Ceramide Night Treatment
This night treatment is an all-in-one (and affordable) solution for damaged, broken skin. A complex of 3% ceramide, 2.5% hyaluronic acid and phytosphingosine repairs the epidermal barrier and hydrates your skin while you sleep, so you wake up refreshed.
Purito Centella Green Level Repair Cream
If your skin is cracked, damaged, irritated or sunburned, this cream will help you recover in less than a week. It contains 50% Centella, a natural extract from Korean beauty that has everything from increasing collagen to soothing redness and regenerating the skin. The formula also contains a blend of restorative and moisturizing ingredients, including niacinamide, ceramide, cholesterol and sodium hyaluronate.
Some By Mi Snail Truecica Miracle Repair Cream
This moisturizer is made with all the great ingredients that repair skin, including niacinamide, Centella, snail secretion and ceramides. It has a viscous texture that feels very moisturizing and never sticky. The natural bergamot scent is an added bonus.
Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream
Or you can use Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream to rescue stressed, dry skin. The formula relies on cholesterol, ceramides and phytosphingosine to promote lipid barrier repair and strengthen the skin. Despite its rich texture, it goes on smoothly and absorbs well without leaving any residue or greasiness.
Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules
This popular serum eliminates wrinkles and uneven texture with retinol, softens skin with ceramides, and restores plumpness with peptides. It does not cause irritation or dry out the skin. Use it nightly to reverse skin aging.
Peace Out Daily Blemish Repair Moisturizer
This moisturizer rescues oily and acne-prone skin with a light-as-a-feather purifying and repairing formula. It provides antioxidant protection and strengthens the skin barrier with a complex of ceramides, psoralenol (plant retinol) and coenzyme Q10. The formula provides long-lasting moisture without clogging pores or leaving skin greasy.
Summer Friday Jet Lag Mask
This ultra-hydrating mask blends skin-friendly ingredients such as shea butter, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid to help soothe, brighten and plump skin. Ceramides strengthen the skin’s barrier, while allantoin and red myrrh alcohol soothe redness and irritation. Whether you’re traveling or just need a little extra TLC, this mask is the perfect way to pamper your skin and leave you feeling refreshed.
